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When curating a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might anticipate well-known high-end venues. However, tucked near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a distant corner of northern London.

An Unexpected Recognition

The compact Turkish spot, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. This accolade has left the family completely astonished.

“I am completely shocked,” says a family member, alluding to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their small shop securing such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its former feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the food, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is folded securely inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly flavour.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for below £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at many times that amount.

A Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not work at fancy restaurants. “I am very proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I think many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this culinary achievement.